Pembrokeshire has a reputation for hard routes put up by rock legends like Pat Littlejohn but it's a fine place for starters too. With over 3,000 routes to choose from, there's plenty of scope for all abilities and plenty of room even on the busiest bank holiday. The Limestone cliffs on the south coast are particularly impressive, especially the awesome Huntsman's Leap, Pembrokeshire's most iconic crag.
There are three main areas to climb in Pembrokeshire:
St Davids peninsula
· The Southern Bay's, either side of Caerfai Bay have a number of slabs and walls including an excellent but well used practice slab at Porthclais.
• The north side of St Davids Head has a good range of easy to difficult routes.
St Govan's (Range East)
· From St Govan's Head all the way to Stack Rocks car park is packed with superb limestone routes.
· This areas is inside the Castlemartin ranges. Call 01646 662367 to make sure they are open.
· Be aware that a recent rockfall near the end of St Govan's Head has taken out several routes and the cliffs are still unstable in the vicinity.
· Saddle Head, Flimston Slab, Crystal Slabs area and Mewsford Point have some easier routes.
· Range West is out of bounds unless you've attended an annual BMC briefing.
• Mowing Word and Stackpole Head are a 2 miles east of St Govan's and are outside the ranges. Mostly hard grades but a handfull of easier routes.
· Between Lydstep Point and Skrinkle Haven
• Mother Careys kitchen is the best known section
As with all sea cliff climbing areas, some sections are closed between 1st March and 31st July because of nesting seabirds. Leaflets are available locally detailing which sections are closed or contact the National Park ranger: Tel 07866 771188. For the sake of all who climb in Pembrokeshire, please comply with these restrictions.
Pembrokeshire rockfax has 450 routes in the main climbing areas. It's a perfect introductory guide. The Climbers Club Pembroke guides have the definitive list of over 3,000 routes.
ID: 27 Revised: 8/10/2012